Finishing furniture is an art form – you can create whatever you want. The terms “distressing” and “antiquing” are often used interchangeably in the wood finishing world. These techniques can be used separately or together along with glazing to obtain the degree of “aging” that you desire.
Distressing is a technique of marking the wood to give the character of generations of use. Start by gathering the essentials of character building; hammers, nails, screws, old hardware, literally anything you can pound into the wood that would leave an imprint. Then start hammering away. If it’s been a long week and you need a lift, start a little character therapy project for yourself. Get rid of all that stress and finish a piece of furniture at the same time!
Antiquing is another form of distressing using sanding techniques, often followed by glazing to give the appearance of an antique piece of furniture that has been well taken care of over the years but, has slight natural wear and discoloration on the doors, edges, or sides. Walk into any furniture store and the trend toward using stains and finishes to create an antique look becomes abundantly clear. Corners and other recesses show the remains of an "old" finish while more exposed surfaces seem to have been "worn away" by time and use. This look of aging did not come from time but from a simple finishing technique that, with a little practice, you can master. Besides applying stains and topcoats, this process involves selective sanding of the "base stain" and wiping in of a "top stain," so it's best to use scrap wood get a hands-on feel for how the stains will look on the particular wood you're using.
Glazing is the process of applying a translucent color to the surface, and then rubbing off the excess glaze to create many effects.

Here's how to do it all, step by step.

Distressed and Antique Finishes

Follow with Glazing if desired. The trick is to really slather it on (and we mean slather), keeping the surface wet as you apply the glaze.  Then just wipe off the excess until you achieve the look you want.  You could use an earth-tone glaze such as Van Dyke Brown applied to the sanded areas and moldings of a piece of furniture to create a discolored and aged look.  Or you can use glazes to create soft layers of colors.   Make the layers of color as intense as you want.

Finish with 3 coats of  Waterbase PolyAcrylic Topcoat following instructions in brochure.

Distressing with Milk Paints and Glaze Effects

Apply  Glaze Effects over  Milk Paints or any of the other  Waterbase products to achieve a distressed look.  Choose furniture with some character such as raised panel doors or decorative molding - most pine pieces will work well.  This is a great kitchen cabinet finish as well.

 Begin with two coats of Milk Paint  painted on for base coat.  Let dry for 2-4 hours and buff between coats with #400 grit paper or a super fine sanding pad.  You have the option of painting a second color over the first, and sanding through to allow the first color to show through (color washing), or simply sanding though to the wood below.

Using coarse #100-#120 grit paper, sand all edges of raised panels, doors, drawers and corners of cabinet all the way through to bare wood. Sand heavily if you want a very rustic looking piece.

Liberally apply Glaze Effects (really get the surface wet) with foam brush or Handipainter pad over entire area. Wipe off excess with a lint free cloth to achieve desired look. The glaze will color your sanded areas and give the painted sections an aged look. Let dry 2-4 hours. Apply PolyAcrylic, or High Performance Topcoats for additional durability or increased sheen.

Creating Faux Marble

Note: These instructions are also included in the  Waterbase Finishing DVD.

Read the information on the application of General Finishes water-based products and the preparation of the wood before starting. These instructions only address using General Finishes products to create special effects.

Creating a marble look on furniture is easy with Milk Paints or Wood Stains. The following are some useful tips to know before you begin. Marbleizing works best on closed grain woods such as pine, maple, birch, aspen, or alder. If you use "open-grain" woods, such as oak, the distinct, visible grain of these woods will show through the background of the marbleizing, and distort the look. Use your imagination! In nature, there are no two pieces of marble exactly alike. If you don’t like the results simply paint over and start again.

List of Materials needed:

1. Apply 2 coats of White to get a solid background. Allow each coat to dry for 2 hours. Then lightly sand the surface to a smooth finish, following instructions in brochure

2.Dip the tip of the feather in Black and draw the marble veins on the surface in a diagonal direction. Use a slow, twisting motion with the feather as you drag the color across the surface. Veins should look like lightning bolts or tree branches, each vein roughly parallel to the one next to it. Avoid a crisscross pattern. The veins should continue from edge to edge. Allow the veins to dry for 5 minutes.

3. Dip the tip of the feather in Black and draw the marble veins on the surface in a diagonal direction. Use a slow, twisting motion with the feather as you drag the color across the surface. Veins should look like lightning bolts or tree branches, each vein roughly parallel to the one next to it. Avoid a crisscross pattern. The veins should continue from edge to edge. Allow the veins to dry for 5 minutes.

4. Next, fold a cloth into a pad making sure there are no wrinkles on the bottom side. Wrinkles will leave an undesirable pattern on the surface. A latex handi-painter can also be used. Blot the entire surface by lifting the pad straight up and down. This will blend the black veins into the white creating a soft, subtle look.

5. Use the feather again to lightly accentuate the veins using Black. Allow this to dry 2 hrs.

6. Finish by applying 3 coats of  Polyacrylic Topcoat, sanding as instructed in the brochure.

Creating Primitive Wood Grain with  Wood Stains and Milk Paints

Note: These instructions are also included in the Waterbase Finishing DVD..

Create the Old World look of primitive grain on any piece of unfinished furniture. In this discussion, we will use a Cranberry Red Wood Stain or Brick Red Milk Paint as the base color and Black Walnut Wood Stain as the secondary color.

1. Apply 2 coats of the base color, then sand the surface with #320 or finer grade sandpaper. Finish with a layer of Polyacrylic to prevent color blending. Allow each coat to dry for 2 hours.

2. Apply a heavy coat of Black Walnut Wood Stain directly over the base color with a polyfoam brush or handipainter. Allow the stain to set for 5 minutes.

3. Create a graining comb by beveling the end of a piece of corrugated cardboard with a razor knife. This will expose the ripples in the cardboard. Drag the comb across the stain to remove most of the top layer of color, allowing the base color to show through. The result will look like wood grain. You can purchase commercial graining combs from craft supply stores to create a different look.

4. An option to graining is Dry Brush Antiquing. Follow steps A and B. After the base color has dried, apply a thin coat of the Black Walnut directly over the base color. Repeatedly brush the stain until it is almost dry to achieve soft grain lines. The wood stain softens the base color to a warm antiqued look.

5. Finish with 3 coats of Waterbase PolyAcrylic Topcoat as instructed in the brochure.

Pickling

Pickling is simply applying a light color stain to wood; then wiping off the stain to let the color of the wood show through. The most popular pickle color is Whitewash Stain. However you are not limited to white. Apply the stain and wipe off as much as you want while letting the wood grain show through the stain. The look you want to achieve is a soft subtle color. Let the piece dry and apply 3 coats of Waterbase PolyAcrylic Topcoat following instructions in the brochure.

Another pickling method (the French provincial look) requires two stain coats. First apply a light color stain, such as  Pecan Waterbase Wood Stain, and let dry for 2 hours. Then apply a coat of Waterbase PolyAcrylic Topcoat and let dry for 2 hours. Finally add the look of age by applying a washcoat of White. Push the White into the edges of raised panels or into detail areas such as carvings. Wipe off the stain from the other areas. Let the piece dry and apply 3 coats of  Waterbase PolyAcrylic Topcoat, following instructions in the brochure.

Color Washing

First, apply a base coat of Milk Paint. While the first color is still wet, immediately apply a second color over the base color. Then brush out the two colors using a dry bristle brush. This will blend the two colors to create a softer shade with interesting texture.

This is the stain that has the most "finishing feel" of all our products.  Woodworkers love the lustrous finish that shows up when rubbing out  the 2nd and 3rd coats. Gel Stains are  formulated with a combination of pigments, oils, and urethanes  to produce a durable and beautiful "hand-rubbed"  finish. >Gel Stains are heavy-bodied, and so do not penetrate as deeply into the wood as liquid oilbase stains do. Because of this, they are often less affected by the condition of the wood, and can help you get a more even appearance on difficult woods such as aspen or pine.  These easy-to-use stains simply wipe on with a cloth or applied with a foam brush (no spills or splashes).  Gel Stains are available in:  Golden Pine, New Pine, Prairie Wheat,  Colonial Maple,  American Oak,  Candlelite,  Nutmeg, Antique Walnut, Brown Mahogany, Georgian Cherry,  and Java.

Gel Topcoat may be used to top coat any stain.  Although Gel Stains contain urethane, Gel Topcoat has a higher content of urethane and may be used to top coat Gel Stains for more protection.

Gel Topcoat is available in satin.  For semi-gloss or gloss sheens, use Arm-R-Seal Topcoat.

Arm-R-Seal is  available in Satin, Semi-Gloss, and Gloss.

Seal-A-Cell Clear
An unusual combination of oils and urethanes, Seal-A-Cell Clear for decades has served craftsman as the best way to get the  that "natural" look on beautiful woods that aren't to be stained.  The oils penetrate deep within the wood to highlight the warm natural look and the urethane insures a deep hardness. Follow with multiple coats of Arm-R-Seal topcoat. Seal-A-Cell can be wiped on or applied with a foam brush. 

Are you looking for furniture or cabinet finishes! Environment friendly PolyAcrylic finishes are easy to apply, durable, and simple to repair. Our special waterborne formulas deliver extraordinary depth and vibrancy of color that cannot be achieved in any oil based product. If you are looking for color - use General Finishes Water Based products! Whether you want bold and luscious or traditional and classic, General Finishes has the finish for you. Available by the pint, quart or gallon. For a local dealer near you, visit General Finishes retail store locator for fine wood finishes.

Award winning finishes! General Finishes High Performance was rated Author's Best Overall Choice. See article by Fine Woodworking Magazine, Nov/Dec 2006.

Milk Paints • Glaze Effects • Wood Stains • PolyAcrylic Blend Top Coat • High Performance Polyurethane Top Coat • Sanding Sealer

Winter White Glaze over Antique White Milk Paint

All furniture develops a patina of fine scratches with use. Occasionally, an accidental nick or scratch occurs that is beyond the definition of patina and requires touch up. While it may not be possible to render such a scratch invisible, it's possible to make it virtually unnoticeable.

Touching up  Water Base Painted Surfaces (Milk Paint and Waterbased Wood Stains)

Furniture Care and Maintenance

Orange Oil

Orange Oil is by far the most popular. It can be used on any finish and does a superb job of removing everyday dirt and dust. It is often compared to lemon oil - however the big difference is that lemon oil contains mineral spirits. Orange Oil is all natural, non-combustible and made from real orange rinds. We love its fresh orange scent. 

Oil and Wax

Oil and Wax has the same citrus base as orange oil with the addition of natural beeswax. Its recommended use is on Danish Oil finishes that do not employ a surface sealing finish. The oils will penetrate into the wood while the wax seals the surface, maintaining a beautiful, rich luster.

Satin Finishing Wax

Satin Finishing Wax (natural or dark) is a dual-purpose product. It can be used as a polish for rubbing out new finishes or as a scratch remover for worn surfaces. It works well over both oil and water based finishes, including Danish Oil. We recommend a wet sanding process followed by buffing to a soft silky sheen.

Butcher Block Oil

Butcher Block Oil is an excellent protectant for all butcher block surfaces. It is FDA approved for protecting wood surfaces that come in contract with food: Simply wipe on, allow 5 minutes to penetrate and wipe off the excess. Use on cutting boards, utensils, bowls, butcher blocks, etc. Odorless.

Furniture Cleaner

Furniture Cleaner is our strongest heavy duty cleaner with a mineral spirits base and is designed for serious cleaning applications. Apply with a 0000 grade steel wool to remove old oils, wax and grease from any wood surface. After the surface is clean, apply General Finish's topcoats or Satin Wax to bring back luster.

Begin with the end in mind

Wood finishing is fun and easy. Don't rush through finishing a piece of furniture as if it is a race. Imagine how it will look finished in your home in living color. Set up a good prep area. Turn on some tunes. Get creative and enjoy the journey. Make something that will bring beauty to your life, save you money, and have fun in the process. Take an a little extra time  to get a good result. 

If you are an experienced wood finisher, refer to our retail brochures for quick and simple finishing instructions.  For those of you that like to know more, we'll take you step-by-step through the wood finishing process including preparing the wood, selecting the finish and applying traditional or decorative finishes. Whether you're planning to finish furniture for your own home, make gift items, or take up woodworking as a hobby, you'll find wood finishing to be a rewarding experience. It's a practical skill that you'll take with you throughout life. Anyone can save money by finishing their own furniture.

The most critical part of finishing a piece of furniture happens before you open a can of  stain or paint. A thorough sanding is often the factor that separates "acceptable" results from "professional-looking" results.

Tips for kit (unassembled) furniture: If you are assembling furniture, do so with an eye to the finished product. Do any major sanding required to make solid and flush joints and corners. Some find it easier to sand before the furniture is permanently assembled. Use caution when sanding individual pieces to avoid rounding over crisp edges that may form gaps when joined and glued.

Whether the project is a ready to finish piece of furniture, a freshly stripped old antique, a kit that needs assembly, now is the time to make minor repairs and do the finish sanding. Use crack filler to fill voids, nail holes and other imperfections. Crack filler should be sanded until it remains only in the void, and not on the surface of  the wood. Excess glue on the surface of the wood must either be flushed and washed away  with clean water while it is still wet, or allowed to dry and cut away with a sharp chisel  or knife-any remaining spots or smears must be completely sanded away. Areas contaminated  by glue will not accept stain.

Sanding preparation

We cannot stress enough that you must have a strong base of proper sanding to achieve the perfect finish!!  See our sanding tutorial below if you want more details. All surfaces should be clean and free from all dirt and oils. Prep sanding is done with progressively finer grits.  Do NOT start sanding with very fine sandpaper on unfinished wood. Prepare the surface by using medium paper first, and then proceed to finer grades. On most raw woods, start sanding in the direction of the grain using a #120-150 grit paper before staining and work up to #220 grit paper.

• On soft woods such as Pine, Aspen or Alder, sand first with #120 and finish with #220. On hardwoods such as Oak, Maple, Birch or Parawood, sand first with #120 and finish no finer than #180.

• On hard woods such as maple or birch, start with a #120 grit paper and finish with a #150 grit paper to keep the grain open and receptive to stain. Finish the final sanding with a finer grit sandpaper such as #220.

Do not over sand or you may seal the wood so much that it will not take a finish. End-grains (areas where the wood has been cut against the grain), such as the front side of a table, tend to soak up more stain than other surfaces. Give end-grain areas an additional sanding to control the absorption of stain.

Make fast work of prep sanding!  Shown here is an orbital power sander with dust bag used to prep the wood surface and buff out between top coats. Sheryl loves this sander!  Just use the correct grade of sandpaper when buffing out between top coats or milk paints. We often prefer to hand sand the final top coats. Do not use an orbital sander when distress sanding flat painted surfaces for an antiqued look. The orbital sander will dig in as you apply pressure to get through the paint, leaving round areas of wear that will not look natural. Natural distressing runs with the grain of the wood.  This photo shows one coat of topcoat being buffed out over Lamp Back Paint.

Sanding tutorial ( for those that want to know more)

A sanded surface is nothing more than progressively  finer and more numerous scratches. Therefore, skipping a grit leaves deep valleys that successive grits are hard-pressed to remove.

A general rule for the use of sandpaper is as follows-the finer the sandpaper used, the lighter the stain color will be. Conversely, the coarser the sandpaper used the darker the stain color will be. Remember that a coarser sanding job will look less refined than the smoother surface that comes from progressing through increasingly finer grits of sandpaper. Final sanding will bring the surface to the desired smoothness. Sanding must be thorough, even and with the grain of the wood. If these criteria are met, no further sanding will be necessary. Since there are so many grades of sandpaper available, some knowledge of what the various designations mean and a little practice are useful in order to take advantage of this important tool.  This chart is based on our experience and is intended as a guideline only.

The number of identification or grit number on the back of sandpaper sheets indicates the smallest opening through which the abrasive particles will pass. For sandpaper marked 220 the abrasive particles will pass through a screen with 220 openings per linear inch. 

The designation 'Open Coat' indicates a particle distribution to prevent the paper from
clogging. The adhesive used on wet or dry sandpaper is resistant to water, oils and paint
thinner.

• The adhesive used on standard sandpaper is water sensitive.

• Cabinet grade sandpaper is backed with heavy paper.

• Finishing grade is backed with more pliable paper.

The types of abrasives commonly used for furniture finishing are garnet, aluminum oxide and
silicon carbide. In general, red garnet paper is used primarily for hand sanding. Grey to
white aluminum oxide is used for either hand or power sanding; black silicon carbide is the
abrasive of choice for very fine sanding in the woodworking field.

Coarse sandpapers below 100 grit, are rarely used for fine furniture finishing. They may, on occasion, be useful for distressing the surface, rounding harsh corners, or breaking down extremely rough areas. The grades of sandpaper used most for furniture finishing fall in the fine and very fine categories-that is from 120 grit through 220 grit; with 320, 400 and 600 grit used for special purposes. For "hard to stain" woods, finish sanding with 120 grit will usually accommodate the problem. For finish sanding on most furniture hardwoods (e.g., cherry and mahogany) use 180 grit or 220 grit. The use of grits up to 600 is certainly allowed but is not standard practice. Usually you will have to make a concession either to surface smoothness or to color acceptance.  Factory sanded furniture still requires finish sanding. Do the initial sanding with medium fine paper and finish with one or more of the finer grades. Be sure you sand the whole surface with the same grit paper. Do not miss a spot. If you do, the stain will be darker on the rougher areas.

Do NOT use steel wool when preparing wood for waterbase finish, as steel particles may cause rust spots.

Sanding Blocks also make quick work. In this photo, Chris is sanding between coats of milk paint using a fine grit rectangular foam sanding block. Great for corners and small places.

Color is determined by four factors:

You can mix General Finishes stains together to create custom wood tones or colors. Be sure to mix enough to complete the entire project.

Other preparation

Remove dust with an air hose, damp cloth or "oil free" tack cloths.  Do not use tack cloths  which contain linseed oil when using water based finishes.  Oil free tack clothes are available from your local unfinished furniture or woodworkers store.

Optional pre-wetting of the wood. On certain woods such as oak and ash, pre-wet the wood with a damp cloth to raise the grain before final sanding. Allow the dampened wood to dry 30 minutes before the final sanding. This will provide a smoother final finish.  

Stir the contents of the can every time you open it!  And we mean stir. Whether you are using oil base or water base products, wood stains and milk paints contain colored pigments and dyes that settle to the bottom of the can and must be thoroughly mixed before application. It may take several  minutes to thoroughly mix the contents of the can so that the color remains consistent as the contents are used up.

The open time with waterbase products is shorter than oil, so stain one surface at a time. Don't be stingy when applying water base products. Load up the foam brush or handi-painter with product and apply LIBERALLY, keeping the surface you are working on wet with product until you are ready to wipe that section off.  As you stain each area, remove excess stain by wiping with a cloth.  It is important to wipe off the stain thoroughly and consistently (in the direction of the grain) to get an evenly stained surface. A second coat, applied after the first one is dry, will give you a darker and deeper color.  

Custom mix colors!!!  Don't let a color chart slow you down. Our water based products; Country Colors, Milk Paints, Wood Stains and Topcoats can be inter-mixed to create custom colors. Let your creative side come out and play! The interior color shown here and in the photo above is a blend of Red Pepper, Yellow Sienna, mixed right in the can until Chris got the color she wanted for the inside of the Rooster.

The tools you need

Before starting almost any wood finishing project, have these items on hand. Get enough gloves, sanding blocks, brushes, etc. Just like golf balls are in golf, supplies are the cheapest part of the game.

Quality paper towels or lint-free absorbent wiping cloths.

"http://www.finishandsave.com/imagesUse gloves, even with waterbase products. Get several pairs if you are planning to layer colors on your project. Applicators will rinse free very well, but the dyes and pigments in waterbase products can stain your hands.  

Chris prefers the snug fit of the latex-free gloves from your local pharmacy. Any glove will work. Here is a tip:  when cleaning up your work area after using WATERBASE products,  just grab all the wet application cloths in your gloved hand and peel the glove off your hand over the cloths for quick disposal.  Never do this when using oil based products. All oil based application materials must be carefully disposed of in accordance with the standards of your local fire department.

Aluminum foil and paper plates. Paper plates covered in aluminum foil provide the perfect container for  application. Throw away the foil and reuse the plates. Remember, oil based products are combustible.  Dispose of them in accordance with the standards of your local fire department.

Prepare raw wood surfaces using fine grit sandpaper such as #180-#220. Use #320 for sanding in between coats. 3M sanding pads can also be used between coats.

Choose your favorite application tools. You can apply any stain with an old rag or bristle brush, but we recommend the following.

Use foam brushes for small surfaces and corners. Flimsy foam brushes fall apart in minutes - a good foam brush can be used several times. We prefer the Polybrush by JEN Manufacturing.  Buy enough quantity to make life easy on yourself.  We usually have several either in use, rinsed or drying. They can be stored after drying and reused several times.

"http://www.finishandsave.com/imagesSmall old bristle brush for dragging excess stain or paint out of corners.

We love using Handi Painter paint pads for large surface areas.  They make it easy to apply a lot of product to a section FAST, and are good for oil base or waterbase applications.  We cut ours in half to make two applicators.  Note that when Handi Painter Pads are new, or cut in half, they shed.   Be SURE to brush or rinse off any fuzz before using. The loose fibers will show up in the finish!    If you are using waterbase products, they can be washed and reused many times.

Don't work like a dog sanding anymore. Use soft back sanding sponges! They fit on standard palm sanders, are very flexible, easy to clean (rinse with water), and last a LONG time.  om is still using one that he started with in 1994. They work great for buffing between coats of finish and are available in 4 different grades - fine enough to rub out finishes! Our favorite for final finishing is the SUPERFINE grade. 

Use Blue Scotch 3M Painters masking tape to section off your project. Great for two tone finishes or for creating specialty looks such as this checker board pattern.  Directions for creating the checkerboard will be posted soon.

Clean up materials: paper towels, cotton swabs, mineral spirits and sealed metal containers, such as empty paint cans (for cleaning brushes, and, with the addition of water, for disposing of rags and waste soaked with oil finishes).

Old clothes are recommended. They are usually expendable, lint-free and make great Halloween costumes.

Work Area Tips

Cover the floor with drop clothes, news paper or plastic sheets. Make sure you cover the floor area around your project enough to easily walk around it. Be mindful of the bottom of your shoes - don't walk through drips and then track onto finished flooring. If your project is small enough, put it on a dolly with wheels to easily access all sides. The dolly shown here was purchased at Home Depot, and is useful for many other things around the house.

When staining door and drawer knobs, punch the knobs into the bottom of a cardboard box for easy finish application. Simply cut slots in the cardboard, and slide the screws (with the knobs attached) into the slots to make them free standing.

Use old boxes for drying racks for small pieces such as drawer fronts.  Recycling bins work well too.